Hi GIMPers,
I’m a scientist working on the colour of seafood. I want to get the average RGB value of the tissue I’m working on, but have it not be influenced by non-muscle tissue (fat) and not be influenced by specular reflection pixels. I’ve used the “select by color” tool to reasonably good effect (see attachments. "6 modified" is after processing, "6_cropped" is the input file), but it requires human input to select the color (around which range pixels will be selected) and the threshold (of how tight the range is). This is not adequate though for high-throughput sample processing, and not reproducible (from human decisions as above). I would like a script which:
1. Isolates the sample from the background
2. Removes pixels associated with non-muscle tissue and specular reflection pixels
3. Calculates average RGB values for remaining pixels
Step 2 could be based around a rule like: Make pixels transparent if R/G/B value lies outside “range specified by user based on color picking analysis of RGB values of unwanted pixels”.
My girlfriend coded one in Python (Github link: https://github.com/aspiringutilitybot/Pi...-of-inputs ), but I thought a GIMP script would be useful.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
       

so i was doing something in gimp, but i hit a key or a combination and suddenly all of the windows and stuff disappeared, and it just had the image i was editing. how do i get it back to normal?

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

Hi, I was trying to create some badges as in gaming type. Some of them are really complex and has a very bright glow like outline. Something like this

   

It would be nice to know how to do this using GIMP. Thanks.

...and why you should not worry about it.

You know that your printer uses cyan, magenta, yellow (CMY) and black (K) inks and wonder about converting between the GIMP (and computer) red, green, blue (RGB) and CMYK.

If printing at home, the inkjet printer software  does the conversion. Just remember that photographs are typically displayed brighter on the computer, especially with Windows Photo Viewers and will print that bit dimmer.

If sending photographs off to a commercial printer, these days they will generally make the conversion for you, with a warning that colours will become 'more subdued'. They will still do a better job than you can do.

LOGO's and designs that are printed using offset printing where layers of colour are printed on top of each other (a subtractive printing process) are another matter.  Your painting / sticker / book cover might come back looking dull and faded.

The best way is to create your design start-to-finish using a CMYK editor such as Krita, however it is possible to use GIMP and see what a print will look like. That is soft-proofing

If you must use Gimp, then pick your colours carefully avoiding those bright greens and blues that will be affected the most.

This little video is about soft-proofing in GIMP. https://youtu.be/jyNz7-QLPLA  about 6 minutes duration.





For those that want a CMYK version of their work using Gimp then there is a plugin CYAN see: https://www.gimp-forum.net/Thread-CMYK-c...3#pid11743

Hello, 

I'm trying to use GIMP 2.10.24 to draw toolbars for MS VS 2019 with Gimp. Although it seems to work fine for icons, none of the BMP parameters seem to produce valid toolbars :

Using these explanations, I can save the BMP file so that it opens in Visual Studio. I also set the mode to RGB and made sure there is no alpha channel.

The app builds OK, but when I run it,

Hi, 

Does anyone have any tips to speed up the export of images so they can be used on the web? Nowadays it is good to have multiple versions of images (for web, mobile, different social media etc).

My dream scenario would be an extension, where you could point to a directory - tell it to export all images in that directory and specify the export parameters to export to (with more than one type being possible).

Dave

I'm doing a face swap and the base layer skin was too dark, so I lightened up the base layer and it worked well for matching the skin on the face's neck and the upper torso of the base layer, But it doesn't look good for the lower part of the base pic's body.

So I then made a duplicate of the base layer and put a layer make on it. I can paint on the layer mask to reveal the lower layer near the neck. It now looks good near the neck, but I can't get the layer mask to have a very gradual fade to the belly button area.

Any suggestions?

Hi. I am new to this software. So forgive my questions as I attempt to learn. 

I took this picture of a night heron as jpeg, and as you can see, there are some green blurred areas in the foreground. This is due to some out-of-focus blades of grass between the camera and subject. 

How would I go about removing these green blurs? 

Thank you. 

This script is a reboot of my old (2012!) retime-linked-layers script, with selection criteria that may be more useful than just the linked status.

Available from the usual place.

Enjoy.

PCLinuxOS // GIMP 2.10.24 // RawTherapee 5.8 // digiKam 7.2.0

Dear All,

I used a Canon EOS 90D camera for my pictures that results in CR3 format of the RAW Images.
Now I know that CR3 images need a "front-end" for being imported into GIMP for which I currently use RawTherapee.
And to view the images (as image viewer), I use digiKam.

(1)
Now when I view the image in digiKam and then open it in GIMP via R/T (for post-processing), the colour intensities are quite different.
Is there anyway I can avoid it happening?

(2)
Can UFRaw be used instead of RawTherapee?

Awaiting your suggestions/replies.

Many thanks
With kind regards
tanmayj316